5 Best Bitcoin Mining Hardware ASIC Machines (2020 Rigs)
5 Best Bitcoin Mining Hardware ASIC Machines (2020 Rigs)
USB - Bitcoin Mining Setup Guide
Liste der Mining-Software - BitcoinWiki
5 Best USB Bitcoin Miners 2020 – Reviews & Buying Guide
Best Bitcoin Mining Hardware (CPU, GPU, ASIC) to Use in 2020
Bitcoin mentioned around Reddit: [Serious] what kind of mining hardware should one invest in with about 1k of available funds for a passive income stream?? should one use usb(s), ASIC(s), FPGA(a), or GPU(S) in this age of the game wi /r/AskReddit
EDIT : Thanks to everybody for pointing out the few mistakes/improvements that can be made in this new-player level guide. For the sake of summarizing here : - Intel documents are NOT worth 250k. I didn't check them on the flea before writing this and for some reason I always remembered them at 250k. Game is in maintenance so I can't check the real price. That being said, it's still profitable to craft USB into Intel, it's just not x2 profitable. - Scav case : moonshine / intel docs, some people seem to say they've never been profitable. I personally *did not* measure those, I eyeballed it. I'm working on so much shit that I didn't bother. On average I think that I'm in a net positive, but it's as believable as people saying they're not : without proof we can't really say for sure. That bein said, it's certainly more profitable to run lower-tier scav runs that are *faster* when you're online, and to run a moonshine or intel when you log off. It's more efficient to get a lot of runs while you can re-start them every time. - Crafting moonshine : It's not profitable to spam it ; I was under the assumption that the average player who will read this will usually not play for 4-5 hours straight and will end up collecting yesterday's moonshine, craft a new one, and that's it. If that's you're rythm then yes, spam it. If you intend to play more than one craft worth's of time, then you will craft moonshine faster than you can spend it, and it's not really worth to sell it on the flea except to up your market reputation for a small loss (about 10k). So in short : craft moonshine to be able to start a moonshine run for when you log off, but you don't *need* more than that.
Check this out
Here is some actual data on the lavatory !! Hey everybody ! I know it can be a struggle to get a stable economy in this game, especially when you die a lot. Today I'm gonna try and give a few guidelines on how to make money safely, efficiently, fast, or in any other way we can think of. If you're struggling to stay above the 15-20 million rouble treshold, this guide is definitely for you. Very often I'll hear newer players say "Damn I can't seem to make money, I keep loosing. Every time I take gear I die instantly". There is some truth in that. Today I'll help you improve your survival rate, but most importantly I'll unbalance the other side of the equation. When you complain about losing a lot of money, I will help you spend less by a significant margin, as well as earn more. You'll also get rid of gear fera naturally. Remember this throughout this very, very long read : It all depends on how you want to play, and how much. Some of these tips will not fit how you want to play the game, and like Nikita always says : this game is supposed to be fun before anything else.
Safety Score : 100% Reward : Moderate but very stable. Maxing your hideout should be one of your top priorities, probably before telling your mom how much you love her every now and then. If you're not doing either of those, the big gamer in you knows what to do. Early wipe, save your fuel for when you're online and playing. If you're playing, your generator should definitely be running and all your stations should be crafting something. Once you have Medstation 1, Workbench 1 and Lavatory 2, you really have no reason to turn your generator off when you're playing. Once you have the bitcoin farm, you should never turn off the generator. Medstation : Craft salewas and/or IFAKs permanently. They cost 8k and sell for 15k. That's a net profit of about 25k / hour for salewas, as well as never having to buy any. Lavatory : Always be crafting Bleach. If you have 2 empty blue fuel, use those empty cans to craft a Magazine case. You can then keep the magazine cases until you've enough for your liking and sell those for a good profit. The bleach you will use to buy the 6B47 helmets which are better than the SSh-68 helmets. Buying from 2x bleach barter at ragman level 1 means you get the helmet for 18k (instead of 33k on the market). This helmet has better head coverage, less slow/negative effects, less weight, has a slot for a mount, has +11 ergonomics AND is cheaper than the 22k SSh-68. That being said, it has a slight noise reduction that the Ssh does not have. If you wear headphones I'd say this is negligible but debatable. I prefer to have the extra protection and ergonomics for sure, considering it's slightly cheaper. You can also barter for that helmet and instantly sell it back for a profit (five times) and level up ragman money requirements. Bleach can also be traded for the Blackjack backpack at level 4, as well as the TTV rig at level 2. You should definitely do it. Sell excess bleach on the flea market when the prices are around 10.5k or more. (around midnight Central European Time). Workbench : You can buy Power Cords and craft Wires forever and always make a profit. Buy in the morning and sell in the evening for better profits (CET timezone). For even more profit, you can craft gunpowders and ammo which tend to also be ridiculously pricy at night. Buying grenades from Peacekeeper and crafting green (Eagle) gunpowder is a good way to make a lot of money and level up Peacekeeper. Intel Center : You main objective is to get this one to level 3 for reduced fees and better quest rewards, but also access to the bitcoin farm at level 2. If you need FiR for quests, craft that. When you're done craft Intel Documents at all times (buy the USB), and use it for scav case or sell for a x2 profit. ( 3x40 for USB = 120, documents sell for 250) Bitcoin Farm : Once you have it, spend all your money on GPU until its maxxed, then level it up even more. The BTC farm is definitely worth it. At 50GPU you need to connect every 15 hours to clic. If you can't, keep it level 2 and connect every 24 hours to clic. Even at level 1 its worth. But its much, much faster at higher levels. From 0 to 50 GPUs it takes about 30 days to pay for itself. GPUs should not be sold until you maxxed it. Water Collector : Must be running at all times. Buy the components if you don't have them. Booze Generator : Must be running at all times. Buy the components if you don't have them. Scav Case : Always have it running on moonshine, and use intel documents once you're done crafting one. Nutrition Unit : It's not really worth crafting sugar to put in the Booze gen, as the price for chocolate is pretty much = the price of sugar. So buy the sugar instead and craft something else. I tend to craft Hot Rods when the prices are good (morning) and then use them to barter 5.45 BS Ammo with Prapor or sell for a profit. If you do all that, you should have about 150k an hour fairly easily. Don't forget to check it between every raid.
Safety Score : 100% Reward : Quite good. Once your mom has received all the love she deserves and your hideout is taken care of, you should have max traders (traders are a requirement for most of the hideout anyway). Traders level 4 will net you much better prices on most mods and open very good barter trades. Buy as much as you can from barter trades. You can buy almost everything from it, and it's usually at least 25% cheaper to buy the requirements and then do the barter. Ragman4 has the CPC Armored Rig which is level 5 armor, you'll get it for about 200k instead of 250k on the flea. The Slick is also much cheaper. The Blackjack backpack is literally half priced. You can also NOT use what you barter and just sell it back to a dealer (sometimes the same from which you bartered) for a profit as well as having 2 times the loyalty money increase (from bartering then from selling). Another good example is buying a Recbat 14k from the market, getting an ADAR for skier, selling it to Mechanic and winning 8k just like that. You can find every single barter that nets a profit yourself and just buy-resell and you'll probably make another 100k every reset, if you really are struggling and have the patience. I personally advise to just use the equipment for yourself unless you're levelling traders, but I wouldn't go as far as buying all profitable items every reset. Every trader at every level has good barters. You can make a full decent kit at level 1 traders for about 40k roubles on barter, instead of 90 if you buy it all. (Paca for masks, helmet for bleach, ADAR for recbatt, salewa from craft, backpack, etc. all barters) Bleach is beautiful and is coveted in the real world for its ability to cure diseases.
Safety Score : 100% Reward : Very profitable. Don't mod out of your reach. Don't mod Meta. If money is an issue for you, having +1 ergo won't change your life. For example, Priced at 10k roubles Priced at 45k Roubles See where I'm going with this? If you have money, sure, go for the Shift. If you wanna have fun and try, sure, go for it as well. But if you're struggling, buy 4 cobras and mod 4 guns for the price of 1% recoil which will not make you a gamer god anyway. Also, do NOT buy mods from the flea market when you see you can buy them from traders. Look at the top of the market, if the mod is greyed out, look at the price. It means you don't have access (yet). If the price is too inflated for you, find another mod. There are always other mods. You can make 2 AKMs that have a difference of 2% recoil and 4 Ergonomics and have a 150k price difference. It's up to you. When money is the issue, this was the answer. Note : Some guns are inherently much more expensive. Guns shooting 5.56 or 5.45 tend to be more expensive than 7.62. AKMs are VERY good budget guns. They're a bit harder to handle, but you can get a fully modded AK for 150-200k, where as you will have an entry level M4 for that price. 7.62 PS ammo is also incredibly cheap while being decent. Play 7.62 if you're struggling with money. It's not meta, but it's far more than enough, trust me. You'll rarely lose fights exclusively because you had PS ammo in an AKM. Rarely.
How much you usually extract with, on average, per map
How much you usually go in raid with, on average, per map
These will help us measure how much you fuck up or not. Lets make it simple. If you have a 500k loadout and you usually extract with 100k, at 10% survival rate, that means you will spend 500k x 10 = 5.000.000 roubles over 10 raids on average, die 9 times, and earn 100k once. This very obvious example shows the loss. Basically we're gonna try and balance that equation so that you never lose money on average. You'll have ups and downs obviously, but over a week or two, it'll smooth things out for you, like math always does in a pleasant conversation with a girl. So what can you do to improve that equation ?
4.1 Improve survival rate
Seems simple enough, DIE LESS. You do not need to be good, smart, or special to die less. If you die a lot, do something different. If you die less, try more of that. Explore statistical advantages through different gameplay. What can you do to die less practically? Here is a list of checkboxes you can tick depending on your money, skill, mood, or any other factor like the map and sheer luck:
Fight from a bigger distance. People miss more from far (so will you, but killing less is irrelevant when you want to die less)
Fight with better gear (supressed, better armor, better ammo, etc.). Its expensive, but it technically helps
Don't fight at all. Avoid fights, run away from gunshots. 99.3% of people who didn't get shot survive a raid.
Wait more, play slowly. If you go with the flow of players, you'll be with the players. Avoid that "wave" and stay behind it. When you come across players trying to extract to where you spawned, hide.
Play with friends if you have any. If not, your mom loves you and so do I. I do coaching so do a lot of other decent players, look it up.
Whenever you die, look at what killed you. Did you take a risk ? Did you lack skill ? Were you out of position ? Were you unlucky ? Try to be as OBJECTIVE as possible even in the frustration. It's pretty much always your fault if you died, avoid toxicity and learn something from that instead. If you took a fight with good gear and ammo and just lost, its probably skill/positioning. It's fine. Learn the game, fight differently, and with time it'll get better. If you were in the open, don't go in the open. If you were sprinting in the middle of interchange and got ambushed, well. Don't do that. Learn.
Do all that, it'll give you a LOT of data to actually improve by just doing something different without really being fastestronger, just smarter. And I repeat : you can do some of it, all of it, it depends on what you like, what you're comfortable with, and the time/investment you're putting in the game. It's okay to play at your own pace.
4.2 Reduce gear cost
The second part of our "profit equation" above is how much gear you take with you. Using previous tips, reduce that cost. Barters, cheaper mods, etc.
4.3 Increase extracted value
This one is not as tricky as it sounds. Basically there are two ways to extract with more money in the backpack :
Know what/where to loot
Have a bigger backpack.
The goal is to pay for the gear you will loose when you die while making a profit on top. That one time you extract if you have a MBSS backpack, you'll need items worth like 50k per slot to break even. If you take a tri-zip, suddenly it's only 30k per slot. If you take a blackjack and blackrock from good old ragman, suddenly it's 10k per slot. So you can break even by looting crickents and DVD players almost. See where I'm going ? Always take a tri-zip or bigger unless you're doing something special. That way you can afford to loot shitty areas, take less risk, and survive more while having a little less value. We'll cover that in a minute, but there are ways to loot high value items, moderate value and low value. Those have also different risk/reward. All of those are also map specific. In woods I'll often go with a 6B3TM armored rig for 40k, no helmet, 20k headphones and a sniper rifle. Rest is pouched so does not count. That's less than 100k investment. All players tend to have low value gear so I never extract with a lot either so it balances out. But on Woods, my survival rate is 20% instead of my overall 40%. So I know it's not a map I can reliably make money on, because I measured that accurately over time. This example is very common and should make sense to you. Same goes for interchange where I have more about 50% survival but will tend to go in with 600k worth of gear, but will also often extract with over 500k quite regularly. Different ratios, different values, different purposes. You can measure your own data if you're willing to do so, or you can eyeball it. Eyeballing it is much faster but very inaccurate because you will tend to include emotions in the mix when you die. You'll remember losses ~2x more than your wins (that's somewhat scientifically proven), and if you're eyeballing your loadout you might think you have 600k but really you might have only 450k. I would advise to go hardcore and measure it all for price, initial loadout, losses and earnings, for each map.
5. Money runs
Now money runs are vast and numerous. All include different levels of risk and reward. It's up to you once again to find what you're willing to do for the time it takes, the fun it will give you and how much it will actually help you. You can always try them all for ~50 raids the sake of trying something different and see how your data is impacted. it doesn't have to be 50 in a row if you don't want to. As long as you keep track of it it can be over a whole wipe. You'd have your data ready for the next wipe :) Faster is better though.
5.1 Hatchling runs
Safety Score : 100% Reward : Very Variable. Mentally exhausting. Those are incredibly money efficient. You're investing a gear of 0 value, so whatever you extract with is 100% win, so you cannot possibly lose money that way. Is it fun? Is it rewarding? I don't care, to each is own. Statistcally speaking, hatchling runs are an efficient way to make money. They do however require a little bit of knowledge, but not skill. You'll be much more efficient at doing these kind of runs if you know where to go, what to look for, and how to get there depending on your spawn. That being said, such knoweldge is easily found ; it's nothing complex, it just takes time to learn. Once again, depends on how much you're willing to invest (if not roubles, time).
5.2 Scav runs
Safety Score : 100% Reward : Low-ish Scav runs are also incredibly efficient for the same reason as hatchlings. Except those have a cooldown. Statisticall speaking I have noticed you should always run your scavs as fast as possible on the map where you extract both the fastest and most frequently. The explanation is simple, lets make it simpler : The scav is a button that makes you earn free money. When you press it the button becomes unpressable for some time, when you release the button you earn money (sometimes). That means you want to release the button as often as possible. And for that, you need to release it as fast as possible. It's that simple. So make scavs incredibly fast. I'm talking "Run through" fast. Unless you're looking for FiR items or doing something specific like annoying a streamer, you should literally run straight to the extract every single time, and loot what you have that doesn't make you go out of your way too much. Usually I suggest factory, go in, kill a random scav, loot it, get out. Two weapons is at LEAST 50k, 100 if they have a scope. There you go. That's 100k every 20 minutes (or less with intel center). That's MUCH BETTER than going up to 150-200k but taking 30 minutes to extract, and taking more risk by spending more time in the map. Every second you're in someone can shoot. Nobody can shoot you in the hideout. The exception to that rule is Scavs with a pilgrim which you can take on your favourite loot-run map, probably interchange or reserve. There you should just fill everything you can and extract once you're full, no matter what you have. 30 crickents and an extra gun is fine.
5.3 Stash runs
Safety Score : Very Reward : Okay Those are very very safe and can be done with a pistol and a backpack only. Very cheap, quite unchalleneged, for a moderate reward. Just go on a map that you like and run around and loot all stashes until you're full, then get out. You can vary the map/route depending on the traffic of players. Interchange and shoreline are good contenders for that. It'll net you easy money. Not great money, but definitely safe.
5.4 Loot Runs
Safety Score : Moderate Reward : Quite alright Once you have better knowledge/skill you can start having a specific route in a specific map, depending on a specific spawn. So it'll take time to learn. Usually very similar than a hatchling run except this time you bring moderate gear and go for moderate loots. For example, instead of going for fast techlight, in-and-out interchange, you can decide "alright I'll loot 100% of Oli and the computers in the back", it'll take time, but it'll make good loot. More money than stashes, definitely will see scavs to kill, and most probably some more pvp. More risk. If you win that PvP you have even more loot as well. But overall good reward. Loot runs need to be "scheduled" and thought of after several tries, so you know how much you can take per person depending on backpack size. For example you can't say "lets loot oli" if you have a 5-man with blackjacks, you'll all be empty. Adapt.
Safety Score : Insane Reward : Unreliably moderate This one is pretty obvious. Very risky, unpredictable rewards. Usually better than loot runs when you survive. I won't elaborate on this, because if you're reading this far you're probably struggling in PvP. And the rest of this guide already covers a fair bit.
Safety Score : "Meh" Reward : Very profitable. Now this is very, very important. Always insure your gear. Always. If you die you will get stuff back, pretty much for free. If you're really struggling people won't loot your "trash", so you WILL get it back. If you play in a group it's very likely that people will hide your stuff too. And most importantly : you can insurance fraud. This is the best way to balance the equation we talked about earlier. If you find a decent-ish gun, replace yours. You drop your initial investment by a significant margin, you will definitely get it back, and if you extract it's a flat profit. Weapons don't take inventory slot, so if you have two weapons that are not yours initially they will usually pay for your whole gear. I have quite often left my super-mega-modded HK just for an average M4 or other weapon that I can fight with, just so I can reduce my investment by 350k and up my reward by like 200k instantly. Replace your headphones all the time too, that's an easy -30+30k, same with helmets. even if it's a bit broken or slightly worse. If you're struggling with money, try to leave every raid with at least 3-4 pars of your equipment that aren't yours initially. But value the risk behind this. I won't leave my slick for a Paca at the third minute of a raid just to have that extra 28k. I won't leave my meta-modded HK for a naked mosin. But if it seems decent/doable, do it. It will pay off. Because even if you die, you still get your shit back, and gun is usually the most expensive part of the gear.
7. Final notes
It's all about balance. Find what works *for you* and try shit out. Really, try. You'll die, you'll learn, you'll adapt with data to back that up. I find it crazy that people will die and not try to learn from it. That's how you will improve as a player. First you gotta get smarter, then you'll get better. And with time, skill, mechanics, gamesense, all that will improve on the side. Earning more will snowball in your favour. And if you know you're statistically okay, you will have a much smaller gear fear and enjoy the game more. Sorry for the wall of text, you guys should be used to it with me by now :D I made these guides in video but not in english, so here I am typing it all for you guys. Enjoy :)
So I'm getting an RTX 3080 from Nvidia and that has a hashrate of 75 MH/s but on eBay how come I can buy a USB Bitcoin Miner ( GekkoScience Newpac USB Bitcoin Miner ) for £55 and get 28 GH/s which equates to £450 per day in terms of etherium currency (at the current price). I'm pretty sure this is too good to be true? Am I right? There are several others similar to this such as renting a 250 TH/s mining setup for 24 hours for only £40 but with the 250 TH/s you could make £4.6k per day. I am very confused...
I have set aside some funds so that i can get in to bitcoin mining and am wondering what the consensus is on USB mining. Im thinking of starting here and then moving up to GPU mining as iI know that many ASIC miners are very expensive. I would also like to know if i should even bother with ASIC mining as many have stated that by time people buy used miners they have already lost profitability, if so should I even try at all? Thank you in advance.
Super bad framerates with a 100% GPU use spike. Can't figure out what's wrong, as temperatures are pretty low.
Okay, so I've been trying to find out why this is happening for about a week, my machine is a Thinkpad P53 workstation, with a 6-core 12-thread i7-9850H and a Quadro RTX3000 GPU. I know this sub is mainly geared toward desktops, but I didn't know where else to ask, as I believe if anyone would have great troubleshooting skills in this topic, it will be you guys. So, I've had this machine for almost a year now, no issues until about a week ago. I have 64GB of RAM and 2TB of nvme SSD storage as well, so I doubt there's an issue there. I started playing a pretty non demanding game, Monster Hunter World, and purposefully set it to 1080p and medium settings, whereas I can run it at 4k 60fps no problem with high settings. The issue happens sometimes after 5 minutes of playing, and sometimes after 30 minutes of playing, it's pretty random, but what will happen is that fps will drop from a solid 60fps to a stuttery 15-20 fps, the important aspect of this is that the exact moment it happens, the GPU usage jumps from around 50% to a full 100% and stays there, not sure what's happening. I know that "100% GPU usage is good" but this case is different. The machine is powerful enough, as I'm pulling 60fps with the highest settings with 50-60% usage, but it only jumps to 100 the exact moment the performance drop occurs. I downloaded MSI Afterburner and RivaTuner to see it in action and got this screenshot: Temps are fine, they rarely go above 80-85C ever, as I've repasted the machine. I took this a few secs after the performance drop, I notice that there's a temp and power throttle, the power throttle is usually there most of the time, and doesn't exactly affect performance, however the temperature throttling is what I find puzzling, as you can see the temps are fine, and stay there pretty much with every game, since it started happening about a week back, I decided to repaste the machine, and even though it helped keep temps much lower than before, it still didn't solve the issue. After reading several threads here, I couldn't find any which were analogous to "High GPU usage, FPS bad", but I did read about several people that found out they had a bitcoin miner malware in their machine which spiked GPU usage. I decided to completely reinstall Windows in order to get rid of that probability, I made a bootable usb drive with the Windows Install tool and completely wiped all of the partitions before reinstall. The issue remained, so I could count out bitcoin malware, or Lenovo drivers, since the clean install came without any Lenovo bloatware, and also driver issues, so I just upgraded all my drivers back to the newest ones, now here I am, desperate to find out why this is happening, begging for help in pcmasterrace. Is there any other benchmarks/tests I can run to diagnose the issue? I bought 3dMark, PCMark, and VRMark to benchmark my machine, and ran the time spy benchmark without issues, but only a couple of times, maybe not enough to have it show up. Lastly, I have the machine plugged in, and on 'Best Performance' mode, which according to the machine, should provide the best cooling instead of caring about being quiet. EDIT: I'll also add, that the issues go away after a machine reboot, and sometimes when changing the performance slider from 'Best Performance' to something else and then back. At this point I think it might be driver or BIOS version related, so perhaps waiting might be the key.
Coil Whine - Unique Situation and What I've Learned and my Desparate Need for Help.
Specs listed at the bottom before you pull your hair out and throw your chair out the window. So for the past 2 months I have been digging all over the internet and troubleshooting this problem in every way I can conceive and I have been through quite the journey to get where I am now, only to find that I may literally be the only one suffering from my unique problem. I am going to be somewhat detailed so that anyone else suffering from this might find this post and learn something (if we find a solution). I will try to keep it concise, but I need you all to know what I have and have not tried so that we don't waste everyone's time. I have an audio buzz. This buzz comes primarily from analogue ins/outs on my PC's hardware. USB audio ins/outs have this as well, but not nearly as bad. I have a USB mixer that I thought was the culprit, because as I was setting up the audio system for streaming it became apparent. I initially discovered ground loops and tried to mitigate the problem by eliminating that. No dice. I systematically eliminated every single ground from the system and removed components to no avail. It would literally be impossible for me to have a ground loop with my current setup - I really dialed that in before I moved inside the PC. Yes I have even plugged the entire system (AS A TEMPORARY - LITERALLY 30 SECOND TEST) into the outlet with no ground prong (bring on the hate) to eliminate that possibility. The main problem that I have is due to the fact that I have to monitor "listen to this device" one input or another with the way my audio works. I need on the fly control of multiple audio streams at my mixer, so I have audio running from windows into my mixer and back out at 2 points. If I want to hear anything from one of them I MUST monitor it within windows. Monitoring the USB audio source does make things significantly more quiet than monitoring the analogue line in, so I am setup this way and things are better than they could be - but still not nearly acceptable. Spoiler: it is due to coil whine which apparently to every single other person in the world is literally a zero issue because they can hide their PC below their desk, keep the culprit component enclosed in the case or use good headphones and not have to listen to the "hardware coil whine." Nobody hears their coil whine through their audio output. If they do - they've been searching for solutions to:
Windows audio buzz/buzzing
Realtek audio buzz
HD Audio Buzz
Buzz through headphones
Buzz through speakers
Etc, you get the idea.
These people that are searching this DO get the help they need. They simply disable a culprit unused audio source, disable monitoring "listen to this device" on an audio source, or reduce microphone boost or lower input/output levels. Some even have success disabling or enabling drivers (but I think this is not the ACTUAL solution - I notice that when I disable, uninstall or update devices/drivers, settings roll back too and any device I was monitoring is no longer monitored (or is monitored by the wrong audio output). My theory is that drivers have nothing to do with this problem - any apparent fix or genesis of the problem due to Windows Update or Drivers are actually just settings being defaulted or change by the audio system resetting. I have also tried USB isolation and dedicated sound cards (which just pass the problem along). The problem is exactly the same no matter what because again - this is due to coil whine and it is at the hardware level at its core. I discovered that it was coil whine after thinking I had discovered it was not coil whine. After all - removing my GPU from the equation didn't stop the sound from persisting in my headphones and a CPU can't coil whine (I don't think)... Anyways, I happen to think I have found a workaround last night. Yeah, sure - the buzz is still there but I am pretty sure it is not coming into my stream. Wrong. I load up a game (and I have my case side panel off) and before I can get into my headphones to check if the noise is back I notice it coming from inside my PC's case. Quick throw-on of the headphones and a quick diagnostic tells me that indeed I am hearing the same noise inside the case and through my headphones. As mentioned before - the USB monitoring has lessened the problem, but not eliminated it. So I have a big "HELL YEAH" moment. The problem is still there - but I know it is SOMEWHERE in this chunk of hardware I am looking at in front of me, and I can assume it is either the PSU, the Motherboard or the GPU. So I take to doing some testing. In my months of research I found that when the computer is "drawing" as in pixels are generating new information, the problem is worse. I also know that loading my CPU to 100% significantly reduces the noise it is making and again I know these things can be related to changes in voltage at the CPU/GPU. So I get a game loaded and go to work. Unplug Display Port - nothing changes significantly, but there is a small change nonetheless. But the monitor literally isn't drawing anything. The CPU is still relaying information (mouse position, the Game, etc). So either way the GPU is still receiving information, just not passing it on to the monitor. Pull the 8 pin off the GPU - Fan cranks to 650% and I couldn't hear anything if I tried. So no dice there but I remember trying this before and not noticing much of a change either. So now I open performance monitor, a web page with plenty of white on it (seems to generate the most noise) and start scrolling around. I notice that I get spikes on the GPU AND THE CPU when scrolling, and the noise in the headphones and at the hardware level is consistent with the movement and the readouts in Performance Monitor. I run Cinebench r20, the CPU shuts the F**k up for the most part, but mostly because it is a high frequency now and most of it is out of normal hearing range (I have a wider hearing range due to ear training) and can pick up the low end of it (18-19khz) and think that if only this was all I had to deal with that would be great. However, I am still getting quick spikes (during r20 test) when I move the mouse to highlight different tables on the performance monitor - so the GPU is also in on it. Speaking of trying to isolate hardware problems: I have tried isolating the noise in the case using a straw and a notebook to block the sound and really can't determine if it is GPU, CPU, or some component on the motherboard or all three - I know it is not coming from the PSU because that is easy enough to isolate in my case (pun not intended - but enjoyed). However, just because the PSU does not whine doesn't mean it isn't the culprit - if it is delivering unstable power to a component then it sure could be (correct me if I am wrong). So here I am - wondering if you all have any valuable input. Please consider that I have read (no exaggeration) 200+ unique pages on this topic (broad as it was in the beginning) and I have tried everything suggested BESIDES replacing CPU, replacing, GPU, replacing MOBO, replacing PSU. And that is why I am here asking for your advice. I need to probably replace components and I have to start somewhere - I cannot RMA anything besides the GPU (lost all proofs of purchase - paid cash for some items at retailers and lost paperwork when moving). And MSI will not RMA motherboards for Coil Whine anyway (according to numerous posts). I am prepared to buy a new MOBO and PSU, but I wonder where you think I should start. Nvidia is looking into RMA'ing the card for me but they're hesitant. I just want to list some other random things I have tried with no success so that you don't waste your time having to ask.
Everything main power related (grounding, loops, power conditioning, etc.)
Modified power plan settings
Disable C-states in BIOS
Remove all overclocks (GPU/CPU/RAM)
Test with different speakers/headphones/combinations of onboard, sound card, audio ins/outs.
Might as well have tested a USB/external sound card considering my mixer is USB and the USB audio out still has a problem (when being monitored)
Cleared cache/reinstalled NUMEROUS programs
Adjusted monitoring levels (this definitely lessens the buzz but it just comes out again when I increase the gain on a later part of the audio chain to make up for the loss in useful audio signal)
Moving case/attempting to ground it and the motherboard better
Shuffled wires/cables around to keep things out of contact or from running parallel to each other
Tried all USB ports and front/rear analogue ports
Probably several other things - I am getting very exhausted working on this all the time.
Limiting frame rate in Nvidia Control Panel and Profile Inspector
Please let me know if you have any input or are suffering the same problem. I would really appreciate it and hopefully someone suffering a problem can find this post and learn something about their own situation from all the processing I have done. Specs:
Thermaltake H22 Mid Tower
MSI B350M Gaming Pro
AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Cooler Master Air Cooler
EVGA DDR4 3200Mhz 16Gb (2x16) Running in dual channel
Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Super Founders Edition 900-1G160-2565-000
2x Mechanical HDD (1 Toshiba, 1 "something else") 1x1TB, 1x2TB Both SATA
1x Samsung Evo m.2 SSD 500GB (boot, some games)
PowerSpec 550w 80+ Bronze non-modular
Windows 10 x64 Pro N Version 1903 Build 18362.1016
Mackie PROFX12v3 USB mixer
LiveWire power conditionesurge protector
Acer 27" XF 1080p 144hz/1ms monitor (connected via DP)
Sabrent powered USB hub
Audio Technica m50x
Logitech G502/G910 Mouse/Key respectively
Broken office chair and a broken spirit... please help me.
Thanks in advance. Update: In case this gets read by more than 3 people. Changed MOBO and PSU (independently and together - as separate tests) and nothing has changed.
Anything in my current, fairly old (but water-cooled!), PC worth using in a new one?
I started building computers around the year 2000 and have never really done a complete build from scratch (for myself) after my first. I'd upgrade a part here and there, and over time everything has been replaced multiple times. However, I'm thinking, due to an upgrade hiatus (it took me a LONG time to "beat" Skyrim :-P), I'm at the end of the road. I'm close to the conclusion that, for the second time in my life, it makes sense for a fresh new build. I figure I'd run this past y'all first. My next computer I'll use for both fun and work. On the fun side, it would ideally play modern games (Particularly, I'm eying Elder Scrolls VI and Baldurs Gate III) on decent settings on my 34" widescreen monitor. Work-wise, it needs to be able to run multiple docker containers and let me do other things (take notes in notion, google docs, etc.) while on a CPU-crushing video call. The budget is $1,500. Here is my current setup and thoughts on each component: Photos:https://imgur.com/a/xyM07dx Things that may be useful: Operating System: Windows 10 Professional (from upgrading from Windows 7... the DVD is hopefully somewhere) PSU: Corsair TX850W - It has been trusty for the last eight years, but may not have the needed connectors for today's stuff. Hard Drive:Crucial MX100 512 GB SATA SSD - 2.5-Inch, No performance complaints (specs claim 6.0 Gb/s), although I'm running out of storage space. Optical Drive: Pioneer DVD-RW - Do people still put these in new computers? I also have an external USB DVD drive I could use in a pinch. Case:Chieftec Dragon Mid Tower - this old case is steel and heavy as shit, which is actually nice as my dogs and toddlers are unlikely to knock it over inadvertently. It has a window which I like, although cable management is a massive pain in the ass. I'm not too fond of the door that covers the buttons and optical drive and lost it long ago. Cooling:Custom water cooling setup - I water-cooled in 2002, overclocking my Athlon XP 1700+ from 1.4Ghz to 2.5. It was awesome. The radiator and T-valve are the original gangsters. I'm on my fifth pump, with my last three being the Swiftech MCP655-B, which I like. The current water block is some D-Tek for the old CPU socket. The radiator is an old Chevy Impala radiator (I think) that this guy I met on a 3DMark (now Futuremark) forum (jb2cool?) custom modified and made a shroud that houses two 120mm fans. I had to drill the shit out of my case to mount this thing in there. I'm very nostalgic about this setup, but it would also be a huge pain to fit into a new case. Monitor:LG 34UM67-P 34 - 34" IPS widescreen; 5ms 2560 x 1080 60hz; is 60hz too slow these days? Keyboard and mouse: Logitech Chordless Wave - USB dongle; wrists feel ok, no complaints Things that probably will not be useful: Motherboard:Gigabyte P45T-ES3G - I'm pretty sure I won't be reusing this. I also bought it to replace a more bad-ass motherboard that died when my previous power supply died and took it out with it. I do like how it had dual bios, though. CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 - Been impressed with this CPU lasting as long as it has. I wet sanded it down to a mirror finish ready to overclock the shit out of it, but then never got to it as life got in the way. Memory: 4x4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 - G.Skill Ripjaws; ancient technology. Note: I want more than 16GB ram in my next build. GPU:Asus Geforce GTX 460 - My previous GTX 460 died at the height of bitcoin, and any modern GPU was stupidly expensive. Replacing mine was only $30 on eBay, so that's the route I went. tl;dr: are any of the above bolded components still worthwhile in a modern PC build?
New England New England 6 States Songs: https://www.reddit.com/newengland/comments/er8wxd/new_england_6_states_songs/ NewEnglandcoin Symbol: NENG NewEnglandcoin is a clone of Bitcoin using scrypt as a proof-of-work algorithm with enhanced features to protect against 51% attack and decentralize on mining to allow diversified mining rigs across CPUs, GPUs, ASICs and Android phones. Mining Algorithm: Scrypt with RandomSpike. RandomSpike is 3rd generation of Dynamic Difficulty (DynDiff) algorithm on top of scrypt. 1 minute block targets base difficulty reset: every 1440 blocks subsidy halves in 2.1m blocks (~ 2 to 4 years) 84,000,000,000 total maximum NENG 20000 NENG per block Pre-mine: 1% - reserved for dev fund ICO: None RPCPort: 6376 Port: 6377 NewEnglandcoin has dogecoin like supply at 84 billion maximum NENG. This huge supply insures that NENG is suitable for retail transactions and daily use. The inflation schedule of NengEnglandcoin is actually identical to that of Litecoin. Bitcoin and Litecoin are already proven to be great long term store of value. The Litecoin-like NENG inflation schedule will make NewEnglandcoin ideal for long term investment appreciation as the supply is limited and capped at a fixed number Bitcoin Fork - Suitable for Home Hobbyists NewEnglandcoin core wallet continues to maintain version tag of "Satoshi v0.8.7.5" because NewEnglandcoin is very much an exact clone of bitcoin plus some mining feature changes with DynDiff algorithm. NewEnglandcoin is very suitable as lite version of bitcoin for educational purpose on desktop mining, full node running and bitcoin programming using bitcoin-json APIs. The NewEnglandcoin (NENG) mining algorithm original upgrade ideas were mainly designed for decentralization of mining rigs on scrypt, which is same algo as litecoin/dogecoin. The way it is going now is that NENG is very suitable for bitcoin/litecoin/dogecoin hobbyists who can not , will not spend huge money to run noisy ASIC/GPU mining equipments, but still want to mine NENG at home with quiet simple CPU/GPU or with a cheap ASIC like FutureBit Moonlander 2 USB or Apollo pod on solo mining setup to obtain very decent profitable results. NENG allows bitcoin litecoin hobbyists to experience full node running, solo mining, CPU/GPU/ASIC for a fun experience at home at cheap cost without breaking bank on equipment or electricity. MIT Free Course - 23 lectures about Bitcoin, Blockchain and Finance (Fall,2018) https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUl4u3cNGP63UUkfL0onkxF6MYgVa04Fn CPU Minable Coin Because of dynamic difficulty algorithm on top of scrypt, NewEnglandcoin is CPU Minable. Users can easily set up full node for mining at Home PC or Mac using our dedicated cheetah software. Research on the first forked 50 blocks on v1.2.0 core confirmed that ASIC/GPU miners mined 66% of 50 blocks, CPU miners mined the remaining 34%. NENG v1.4.0 release enabled CPU mining inside android phones. Youtube Video Tutorial How to CPU Mine NewEnglandcoin (NENG) in Windows 10 Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdOoPvAjzlE How to CPU Mine NewEnglandcoin (NENG) in Windows 10 Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHnRJvJRzZg How to CPU Mine NewEnglandcoin (NENG) in macOS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj7NLMeNSOQ Decentralization and Community Driven NewEnglandcoin is a decentralized coin just like bitcoin. There is no boss on NewEnglandcoin. Nobody nor the dev owns NENG. We know a coin is worth nothing if there is no backing from community. Therefore, we as dev do not intend to make decision on this coin solely by ourselves. It is our expectation that NewEnglandcoin community will make majority of decisions on direction of this coin from now on. We as dev merely view our-self as coin creater and technical support of this coin while providing NENG a permanent home at ShorelineCrypto Exchange. Twitter Airdrop Follow NENG twitter and receive 100,000 NENG on Twitter Airdrop to up to 1000 winners Graphic Redesign Bounty Top one award: 90.9 million NENG Top 10 Winners: 500,000 NENG / person Event Timing: March 25, 2019 - Present Event Address: NewEnglandcoin DISCORD at: https://discord.gg/UPeBwgs Please complete above Twitter Bounty requirement first. Then follow Below Steps to qualify for the Bounty: (1) Required: submit your own designed NENG logo picture in gif, png jpg or any other common graphic file format into DISCORD "bounty-submission" board (2) Optional: submit a second graphic for logo or any other marketing purposes into "bounty-submission" board. (3) Complete below form. Please limit your submission to no more than two total. Delete any wrongly submitted or undesired graphics in the board. Contact DISCORD u/honglu69#5911 or u/krypton#6139 if you have any issues. Twitter Airdrop/Graphic Redesign bounty sign up: https://goo.gl/forms/L0vcwmVi8c76cR7m1 Milestones
Sep 3, 2018 - Genesis block was mined, NewEnglandcoin created
Sep 8, 2018 - github source uploaded, Window wallet development work started
Sep 11,2018 - Window Qt Graphic wallet completed
Sep 12,2018 - NewEnglandcoin Launched in both Bitcointalk forum and Marinecoin forum
Sep 14,2018 - NewEnglandcoin is listed at ShorelineCrypto Exchange
Sep 17,2018 - Block Explorer is up
Nov 23,2018 - New Source/Wallet Release v1.1.1 - Enabled Dynamic Addjustment on Mining Hashing Difficulty
Nov 28,2018 - NewEnglandcoin became CPU minable coin
Nov 30,2018 - First Retail Real Life usage for NewEnglandcoin Announced
Dec 28,2018 - Cheetah_Cpuminer under Linux is released
Dec 31,2018 - NENG Technical Whitepaper is released
Jan 2,2019 - Cheetah_Cpuminer under Windows is released
Jan 12,2019 - NENG v1.1.2 is released to support MacOS GUI CLI Wallet
Jan 13,2019 - Cheetah_CpuMiner under Mac is released
Feb 11,2019 - NewEnglandcoin v1.2.0 Released, Anti-51% Attack, Anti-instant Mining after Hard Fork
Mar 16,2019 - NewEnglandcoin v184.108.40.206 Released - Ubuntu 18.04 Wallet Binary Files
Apr 7, 2019 - NENG Report on Security, Decentralization, Valuation
Apr 21, 2019 - NENG Fiat Project is Launched by ShorelineCrypto
Sep 1, 2019 - Shoreline Tradingbot project is Launched by ShorelineCrypto
Dec 19, 2019 - Shoreline Tradingbot v1.0 is Released by ShorelineCrypto
Jan 30, 2020 - Scrypt RandomSpike - NENG v1.3.0 Hardfork Proposed
Feb 24, 2020 - Scrypt RandomSpike - NENG core v1.3.0 Released
Jun 19, 2020 - Linux scripts for Futurebit Moonlander2 USB ASIC on solo mining Released
Jul 15, 2020 - NENG v1.4.0 Released for Android Mining and Ubuntu 20.04 support
Jul 21, 2020 - NENG v220.127.116.11 Released for MacOS Wallet Upgrade with Catalina
Jul 30, 2020 - NENG v18.104.22.168 Released for Linux Wallet Upgrade with 8 Distros
Aug 11, 2020 - NENG v22.214.171.124 Released for Android arm64 Upgrade, Chromebook Support
Aug 30, 2020 - NENG v126.96.36.199 Released for Android/Chromebook with armhf, better hardware support
2018 Q3 - Birth of NewEnglandcoin, window/linux wallet - Done
2018 Q4 - Decentralization Phase I
Blockchain Upgrade - Dynamic hashing algorithm I - Done
Cheetah Version I- CPU Mining Automation Tool on Linux - Done
2019 Q1 - Decentralization Phase II
Cheetah Version II- CPU Mining Automation Tool on Window/Linux - Done
Blockchain Upgrade Dynamic hashing algorithm II - Done
2019 Q2 - Fiat Phase I
Assessment of Risk of 51% Attack on NENG - done
Launch of Fiat USD/NENG offering for U.S. residents - done
Initiation of Mobile Miner Project - Done
2019 Q3 - Shoreline Tradingbot, Mobile Project
Evaluation and planning of Mobile Miner Project - on Hold
Initiation of Trading Bot Project - Done
2019 Q4 - Shoreline Tradingbot
Shoreline tradingbot Release v1.0 - Done
2020 Q1 - Evaluate NENG core, Mobile Wallet Phase I
NENG core Decentralization Security Evaluation for v1.3.x - Done
Light Mobile Wallet Project Initiation, Evaluation
2020 Q2 - NENG Core, Mobile Wallet Phase II
NENG core Decentralization Security Hardfork on v1.3.x - Scrypt RandomSpike
Light Mobile Wallet Project Design, Coding
2020 Q3 - NENG core, NENG Mobile Wallet Phase II
Review on results of v1.3.x, NENG core Dev Decision on v1.4.x, Hardfork If needed
Light Mobile Wallet Project testing, alpha Release
2020 Q4 - Mobile Wallet Phase III
Light Mobile Wallet Project Beta Release
Light Mobile Wallet Server Deployment Evaluation and Decision
Building an Ethereum Mining Rig (13 GPU) - 4th part
Third update to the guide "Building a Mining Rig for Ethereum". The absolute first guide to building a RX Vega 64 8gb 13 GPU Mining Rig. Reading this guide to building a 13 GPU Ethereum mining rig requires adequate knowledge of building and running an Ethereum Mining Rig. We therefore recommend a previous view of our Guide to build a Mining Rig and related updates. Let's immediately list the hardware used: - Asus Mining Master X370 mainboard - Core i5 Coffee Lake CPU - 480 or 500GB SSD - 32Gb Ram - 13 GPU RX Vega 64 8Gb - 3 x 1000W power supplies - 1 1200W power supply - 8Gb USB stick In this guide we will obviously not explain how to mount the hardware of a Rig. The only notes we wish to underline are the following: - the 1200W power supply must be the primary one on which to connect 4 GPUs and the video output for the monitor - all the risers, as well as obviously the GPUs, must be powered through the 8-pole connections of the power supplies. We strongly advise against the use of 6-pole ports. Therefore, have the appropriate number of cables available for all connections. Risers can also be powered in pairs. - the model of the video card used is the Asus Rog Strixx Gaming RX Vega 64 8Gb The operating system is Windows 10 updated to the latest version available. The tool for creating installation media is available at the following link https://www.microsoft.com/it-it/software-download/windows10 to be able to use the USB key as a launcher for installing Windows 10 . With the Asus Mining Master, the GPU risers can be connected directly to the motherboard via the USB cable, thus making one of the small components of the riser kits unusable. After making all the connections on the motherboard, check that all GPUs are highlighted in green when the PC starts up. If not, move the USB cable on the motherboard one position. It may take at least 2 or 3 attempts. Ethereum mining with 13 GPUs Having solved this possible small inconvenience, let's proceed with the installation of the AMD Adrenaline 2020 drivers, always updated to the latest version, relating to the RX Vega Series. If you want to proceed with more caution, the advice is to disconnect all the GPUs (remembering the locations of the USB cables) except one before installing the drivers. The mining will be carried out on the Ethermine pool, our favorite, using the Claymore 15 software. Once the download is complete, you will have to unzip the folder on the desktop and open the start.bat file contained in the Claymore folder using Notepad. The procedure is the usual one: delete the content and copy-paste the following command string: start config.dll -epool eu1.ethermine.org:14444 -ewal "your ETH wallet address" -epsw x -worker "worker" EthDcrMiner64.exe Where EthDcrMiner64.exe is the executable, -epool indicates the pool to mine and its port, -ewal is the wallet address and -epsw is the password that we leave blank (X). In place of "your wallet address" you will have to put your Ethererum wallet and instead of worker you will enter an identification number in case you plan to build more RIGs (such as RIG1, RIG2, etc ...). At the following link, many other useful commands for your Rig: https://github.com/Claymore-Dual/Claymore-Dual-Miner Try to run mining and check that the system is stable. In the Payouts section, after a few minutes of mining, you can decide the minimum amount of Ether to be sent to your wallet by simply entering the IP address of the RIG. We performed the mining directly on the Ethereum address of the Exodus wallet. Coinbase is not supported. Overclocking with OverdriveNTool Let's proceed now with the download of OverdrivenTool at the following link: https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/overdriventool-tool-for-amd-gpus.416116/ For those unfamiliar with it, we recommend reading our software guide. For those who do not intend to experiment or do not completely trust their software experience, at the following link you can view the settings on the parameters of the GPUs and the RAM of the GPUs - and other small tricks - to obtain the best possible performance without forcing the cards too much. video. On our Youtube channel (subscribe numerous !!!) you will now be able to see the video relating to the start of mining and the one concerning the stabilization phase. To better cool the Rig we have also installed fans for the extraction of heat as caution is never too much. Moreover, there is also an aesthetic gain. Conclusions on the guide to build a 13 gpu ethereum mining rig. Finally, we conclude this guide by reporting what everyone was waiting for (we do not say how long we had to wait before obtaining this result) the video link complhttps: //www.youtube.com/watch? V = k53XZn3zc9I & t = 61seto del Rig e del Mining . We remain available for any advice, both on pools, on yield and on consumption. Feel free to contact us in case you run into any problems where our guide to Building a 13 GPU Ethereum Mining Rig has not been completely helpful. See you soon. If you liked this article and would like to contribute with a donation: Bitcoin: 1Ld9b165ZYHZcY9eUQmL9UjwzcphRE5S8Z Ethereum: 0x8D7E456A11f4D9bB9e6683A5ac52e7DB79DBbEE7 Litecoin: LamSRc1jmwgx5xwDgzZNoXYd6ENczUZViK Stellar: GBLDIRIQWRZCN5IXPIKYFQOE46OG2SI7AFVWFSLAHK52MVYDGVJ6IXGI Ripple: rUb8v4wbGWYrtXzUpj7TxCFfUWgfvym9xf By: cryptoall.it Telegram Channel: t.me/giulo75 Netbox Browser: https://netbox.global/PZn5A Horizen Faucet: https://getzen.cash/auth/register?ref=153228
Mistyped the title... This is going to be a simple guide to help any R1 owner upgrade and optimize their Alpha.
(In order of importance) Storage Unit: HDD OUT SSD IN This is by far the easiest upgrade to make and the most effective. https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100011693%20600038463 Any of those will work, just needs to be 2.5 Inch SATA. How to Replace Video WIFI Card: This is like a 5-15$ upgrade. Go find any Intel 7265ngw off eBay and replace it with your current WIFI card. If you don’t want to buy used then here. How to Replace Video RAM: Ram prices have tanked because of bitcoin mining, so this has become quite a cheap upgrade as well. I’d recommend 16GB just because why not, but if your tight on cash 8GB is fine. https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100007609%20601190332%20601342186%20600000401&Order=BESTMATCH How to Replace Video CPU: This required the most research. I’d recommend you look through this first. The wattage of the processor slot only ranges from 35w-50w according to a developer of the Alpha (Source). The socket type is LGA 1150. If you’re going cheap, the i5-4590t (35w) and i5-4690s (65w) are both great options. i5-4590t i5-4690s The i5-4690t (45w) is also great but is hard to find from a trustworthy source for a reasonable price. If your willing to spend $100+ then easily the i7-4790t (45w). That is probably the best processor to put in the Alpha. All 45w will be used giving you 3.9 GHz Turbo. The T series apparently runs the best on the R1 according to This Reddit post. How to Replace Video GPU: Coming Soon! Maxed out Alpha R1 specs: i7-4790t, 1TB Samsung SSD, 16GB DDR3, Nvidia Geforce GTX 860m. (Upgrading to anything better then that is pointless)
Optimizing the Alpha R1
1st Completely wipe the computer
Just a good place to start, gets rid of Hivemind and other aging programs.
What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.
I want to play Warzone and (soon) Cyberpunk 2077 on the best possible settings, with the ability to stream on Twitch.
What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?
Ideally, I want to be between $2000-$2500, but am financially willing to go up to $3000.
When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.
I am in no rush to buy the PC this week or this month. If I should wait for new processors and video cards that will be released in the fall, then I'll do that.
What, exactly, do you need included in the budget?
The best parts to support the highest video settings on a 4K monitor. CPU, CPU cooler, Mobo, GPU, PSU, Hard Drive, Case, Windows OS, additional USB ports, all that stuff
Pretty much everything but a mouse and keyboard.
Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?
US - no MicroCenter location near me
If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.
Just the mouse and keyboard
Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?
I have no desire to overclock
Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)
I definitely want at least a 1 TB SSD drive (ideally 2 TB's), but the other words are things I don't know about so I have no clue. Whatever will help me have the best gaming/streaming performance for my budget.
For $3000, I just want the best possible gaming & streaming setup I can get. I don't do video editing, or Bitcoin mining, or any of that. I want to play and stream games, stream videos, and browse the Internet with it.
What type of network connectivity do you need? (Wired and/or WiFi) If WiFi is needed and you would like to find the fastest match for your wireless router, please list any specifics.
I have a powerline adapter connection, so I'll need an Ethernet port
Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?
I want LED lighting, ideally blue and red
Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?
Yes, just a basic Win10
Extra info or particulars:
I want this PC to be built for me. I've built my own PC a few years ago and it took way longer than expected and received faulty hardware, so I will gladly pay extra to have someone else do it for me. Just the cable management alone is something I'm willing to pay an extra few Benjamin's for. For the aesthetic, I would like the case to be see-through with LED lights inside, with a white case.
I'm not sure what my instability issues are, motherboard, or nvme drive, or cpu maybe? Hard-lockups, blue screens, exacerbated by drive writing.
System Specs: 32gb DDR4 3200mhz AMD Ryzen 5 3600 ADATA 1tb NVME drive. 750 watt EVGA Bronze PSU NVidia 970 GTX (which also crashes, but that's not the issue here - it was an old bitcoin GPU a friend sold me on the cheap, was the only thing I could afford) MSI Gaming Plus x570 Motherboard Stock cooling (air) Windows 10 2019 LTSC I've actually already replaced the ADATA NVME drive once -- a couple of months back it just up and died completely. Upon replacing it, things were stable for a while (a while being...about a month and a half), but I'm getting random lockups now, and issues that seem to point to the ADATA NVME drive, or...maybe the motherboard? I've already RMAd the NVME drive once...I'm afraid I'm SOL on doing it a second time. It's not a Gen4 drive, according to CrystalDiskInfo, it's running at PCI-E 3.0x4 lanes. S.M.A.R.T. isn't reporting anything erroneous. CrystalDiskMark reports about 2k MB/s sequential reads @ 1MiB (top test), and ~800MB/s write when I benchmark it. Really the problem reared its ugly head as I was doing an update to a game yesterday evening. It was a 3gb update, followed with an "optimization" which basically reads and then rewrites the game files sequentially on the disk. This is basically 30gb worth of rewriting, and it really brought out the machine locking up while it was doing its thing. As I watched on my task manager, the drive went from 20MB/s writes, down to 8MB/s, down to 1MB/s, up until the machine essentially stopped responding. The NVME drive was warm, but I bought a really beefy heatsink for this thing after the first one died; taking insane care putting it together and making sure this one was pampered. Randomly I'll come home these past few weeks with Windows 10 on a screen saying it couldn't repair the boot device, or that a boot device wasn't found, and I've even gotten a "NON_PAGED_POOL" error once which made me think I had a RAM issue. I've thrown memtest on a USB stick and ran it over night with nothing to show for it. So at the very least I'm pretty sure my RAM is fine. After last night, lockup after lockup, I moved the NVME drive down from the top slot above the GPU (it...gets a little toasty there, but not uncomfortably so.) down to the slot below it. So far, in 24hrs, I haven't gotten any random crash - but that may just be luck. I've had strings of a day or two where nothing happened. My problem is - I don't know what I should be distrustful of at this point. The NVME drive that died was in the top slot of this motherboard. I seem to maybe, have possibly resolved it by putting it in the bottom slot...should I RMA the motherboard? The drive? I've heard something about the top NVME slot being connected directly to the CPU and the bottom one having to go through a PCI-E controller instead or something? -- I don't know details on that exactly, but could the CPU be the issue with the top nvme slot? So now I'm kinda freaking out, wondering if I've gotta rebuild this stupid thing with an RMA'd mobo, or if the motherboard is even the culprit at all anyhow. Fans are all max, running them balls-out because I thought it could be a heat issue at some point. At this point, I'm kind of at a loss and I'm becoming really disappointed in this new machine I built for myself - it's unstable, it's also the local minecraft server for my kids, and it keeps causing me issues. Edit: Has the latest bios. I updated that when it came out. No overclocking going on with the board at all; I bought the x570 for future expansion in mind... also sorry about my writing - I have gray-matter memory issues and sometimes I'll repeat myself or make a sentence read weird. Ask for any clarification and you'll get it.
Hi everybody! Beginner bitcoin miner here. I recently bought a newpac bitcoin USB stick miner just to mess around with and explore the world of bitcoin mining. I finally got it running today just off of my motherboard and it is averaging somewhere around 25 Gh/s. I'm using cudo miner btw. I have also been running my gpu, a Radeon RX 570 to mine which has been averaging around 10-12 Mh/s. When i check my stats on CudoMiner my newpac is making wayyyyy less satoshis than my GPU. Can anyone help me explain why this is happening when the newpac is averaging a lot more hash power? Thanks in advance.
I don’t know if it’s just me but I decided I wanted to mine some bitcoin using my gpu at first I kept getting virus alert messages that I gave access btw I downloaded nice hash directly from the GitHub page they redirected me to . So then later I noticed the symptoms of the virus begin to show up. The computer started running very slowly also all my norton firewalls were off somehow I did not switch them off every time I went to switch it back on norton crashed. Then comping to the internet I don’t know if it’s Cisco Webex but it never did this before I was using my phone and it kept loading and never joined . At this point I decided to disconnect my internet from my pc. It then connected . I think bandwidth was reduced but can’t be sure it could be webex’s fault .anyone confirm if this.I booted into safe mode after and after that I could not login using my password I don’t think that is a symptom of the virus but can someone confirm this. Update :- my pc now wasn’t booting up non of the ports were working my keyboard or mouse were not working ik cause they didn’t light up meaning no power . So I did a cmos reset didn’t work so my motherboard has the option to Re flash the bios it’s the x570 meg motherboard so I reflagged my bios and it booted up . Btw this never happened I build my pc myself tested each and every part only after I downloaded this garbage miner I started facing problems. When u think antivirus are lying I don’t think so y other miners work perfectly fine with the antivirus only this piece of shit software doesn’t . It somehow managed to go to my bios how the f did they do that idk but I swear u literally want trouble if u download this Edit 3:- ended up deleting windows and downloading it back from a usb stick
Going to build a new high-end PC, for gaming, video editing and other heavy workloads. I already have an AMD 5600XT GPU, and a CM750 PSU that are a few years old, but used only a little when I had it powering bitcoin miners for a year. I have a 1TB Crucial SSD for secondary storage I have ordered, but not yet picked up:
i7-10700K + Arctic Freezer 34 eSPORT fan (listed 200W TDP). Not sure if it is worth it over non-K. Non-K supposedly throttles down after 56 seconds. Avoiding/minimizing the LP1 throttling is my main concern. Are the K series really better ? Tested for running at higher speeds ? Or is it same quality ? Water cooling not really something I want, unless it is really worth it. My experiences many years ago were not that great.
Z490 Motherboard, MSI Tomahawk, as I want high speed USB-C. non-Z490 are hard to find, a few available in mini-ITX form factor. So decided to pay the $100 extra.
Fractal Design Focus G case - Good or bad ?
A-data 8200SX Pro NVMe
Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 C16 BK DC - 32GB. It might be overkill with 32GB
Any bad choices here ? I try to keep it cheap, but pay a little extra when I think it is worth it. Should I use my old PSU ? Or get a new 550W Gold rated instead ? CPU + GPU = <400W at max load. So 550W supposedly most efficient (run at 65-80% of PSU capacity is most efficient from what I read).
Building my first rig with 6 GPUs using an Asus B250 MB, looking for advice
New member so please be gentle. I have been micro mining for a few months now (with my GTX 1060 and my new RTX 2080 ti) and want to step up my game a notch. I have my sites set on building the following system with the specs listed below so far. Any input on why I should not use a specific item or why I should use a certain item would be greatly appreciated! 1. Kingwin Bitcoin Miner Rig Case W/ 6, or 8 GPU Mining Stackable Frame x 1: I have expansion in mind with this frame. It's stackable and ounces I ROI my first rig I plan on tossing a second level on to it. This frame is currently selling for around $50. Kingwin Bitcoin Miner Rig Case W/ 6, or 8 GPU Mining Stackable Frame 2. ROSEWILL Gaming 80 Plus Gold 1600W Power Supply (HERCULES-1600S) x 1: The heart of any rig, the power! I like this one for it's 1600W and it's price. Currently running around $200. ROSEWILL Gaming 80 Plus Gold 1600W Power Supply (HERCULES-1600S) 3. ASUS B250 MINING EXPERT Motherboard x 1: This motherboard is being used with expansion in mind. I want to start with 6 GPUs then build on that. Currently running around $140. ASUS MINING EXPERT Motherboard (B250) 4. VOLADOR PCI-E Riser 1x to 16x Powered Riser Adapter Card (USB3) x 6: Standard USB 3.0 risers. They come in a six-pack for about $20. VOLADOR PCI-E Riser 1x to 16x Powered Riser Adapter Card (USB3) 5. XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS XXX Edition (RX-580P8DFD6) x 6: Currently cheaper than the Sapphire below. These are currently running around $170. XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS XXX Edition (RX-580P8DFD6) 5-ALT. Sapphire Radeon Pulse RX 580 8GB (11265-05-20G) - BACKUP CHOICE GPU: This is what I was looking at first then I found the cheaper XFX Radeon's above. These are currently running around $180. Sapphire Radeon Pulse RX 580 8GB (11265-05-20G) 6. CPU: Currently I do not have any CPUs in mind to use for this rig. I know I don't need a beefy CPU for running Windows. I plan on ONLY mining with GPUs in this rig. Suggestions are welcome! 7. Memory: Currently I do not have any memory in my sites. Suggestions are welcome! 8. Harddrive: I plan on using a simple 128GB USB thumb drive for the hard drive right now. Possibly something like an SSD if needed, but plan on using USB flash drive to start. Pros/Cons suggestions welcome! I think I my video my endeavor and show everyone how fun/frustrating it all was. Catching all the pitfalls in hopes of helping others out etc. But first I need to have a plan and that's what this is. I need to do some lite research, get a good shopping list, make a payment plan, and an ROI schedule. Any feedback that the community could give me would be very helpful because I only know about 80% of what I need to know to build this rig. The 20% is the overclocking, bios issues (MB and gpu), and general knowledge of building a mining rig. I expect there to be pitfalls and parts I didn't think of until I start the build.
Hi there, I'm running esxi on my home server and I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that there are more discrete PCIe devices (low-power GPUs, USB-cards, SATA-controllers) that I'd like to pass through to individual VMs than my mainboard can provide PCIe slots for. How would esxi handle PCIe bifurcation or riser systems like this? Could I pass through all PCIe devices connected to these kinds of systems to individual VMs or could I only pass through the "original" slot on the motherboard? To clarify, I'm not worried about bandwidth here since I'm neither using high-power GPUs nor 10Gbit ethernet adapters nor NVMe-storage, so I'd be fine with having 16 PCIe x1 slots instead of one PCIe x16 slot. Thanks!
Let me start this off with this is NOT a comprehensive, end-all-be-all guide to 'how to setup a livestream.' This is simply the workflow/setup I've come to use over 4 years of on and off streaming on Twitch. Hopefully it can help some of yall out that are (finally XD) joining the livestream world. *I only stream on Twitch using OBS, so this will be specific to Twitch and OBS; I have not tried YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, or any other platform or streaming software, but the basic outline is kind of there. Hardware: 2x 1200's, Rane TTM57sl mixer with Serato Scratch Live, Samsung laptop, Behringer Xenyx 802 USB mixer, Shure SM57 mic, Pansonic GH2 or Logitech webcam (depends on if I'm using green screen or not), and then my gaming PC is my streaming PC. For speakers, I have a Yahama receiver running a 5.1 system that I use with my gaming/streaming PC. It's not the best setup for DJ'ing necessarily, as the receiver can add quite a bit of latency, but if there is any now, I barely notice it. I run the receiver in 5 channel stereo, and turn off any signal processing that I can. Audio setup: I run 1/4" out of the booth outputs on the TTM57 into the Behringer mixer (this is for the stream audio). Then I have RCA -> 1/8" from the aux out on the TTM57 into the aux input on my receiver for my 'monitors.' I run the mic (XLR) into the Behringer mixer as well. The Behringer connects via USB to my stream PC. Camera setup: I either use an HDMI to USB3.0 capture card with my GH2 or a Logitech USB webcam. All it takes is plugging it into the stream PC. Easy enough. OBS setup: There are a TON of YouTube and written tutorials to setup OBS, but they generally focus on gaming and not so much DJ'ing. I won't go into too much detail, but will point out stuff more particular for DJ'ing. This is my main OBS screen. Have everything plugged in and turned on before you open OBS to make sure it picks up your USB devices (USB mixer and camera). Should go without saying, but also make sure you have your drivers installed for the devices. [Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/b2zJazj.png) The only audio I want outputting to the stream is from the Behringer mixer, so the desktop audio and camera audio are muted. Aside from the camera and mixer, all of the other sources in my source window are optional. (If you're curious as to why Winamp is in there, I can add details on that in a later post) Output settings: [Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/p2mIfvC.png) Video bitrate will depend on your ISP, your upload speed, and your streaming PC hardware. I've had to drop mine down to 2500kbps from my usual 3500kbps recently. I guess with everyone at home using the interwebs, my connection seems a lot more unstable than even a month ago. I set the audio bitrate to 320kbps, but I think Twitch ends up compressing it to 192kbps for viewers. Recording settings are optional, I only recommend streaming and recording at the same time if you have a decently powerful streaming computer. Better to record just the audio in your DJ software to upload the mix later. Twitch will mute any replays with copywritten material, so I upload to Mixcloud for archiving. I run the mic through the Behringer mixer versus the mic input on my Rane mixer because I talk to chat, and it's annoying listening back to mixes with me yammering through parts. My GPU recently kicked the bucket (still works on default Windows drivers...which has caused some bottlenecks when it comes to streaming, but I can still do it) so for now I'm using software encoding, but if you have the option for hardware encoding, use it. Video Settings [Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/2AjjHnL.png) Leave your base canvas at 1920x1080, but you want your output at 1280x720. I haven't really noticed a difference in the various downscale filters, but bicubic is what I use. 30fps is best for your viewers, as it's less demanding than running 60fps, but that's really up to you. Twitch: Twitch takes some getting used to; whether it's the website itself or the community/culture. The music community is very welcoming (especially now), and I encounter far less trolls there than in gaming channels. There's a lot of people there now trying to figure everything out, so don't feel like you're late to the party. If you want to try to make some money, you'll want to setup a donation site. Can be a simple PayPal link, Bitcoin link, or you can use something like streamelements or streamlabs. Those two extensions add other things like chatbots, commands (ie: a viewer can type !mixcloud in my chat will send a message in chat with my Mixcloud link), followesubscribedonator notifications. All of those are customizable, but I'd recommend just using the default stuff before making custom notifications and such. It can be a bit of a time sink..but then again I guess we got nothing but time right now. After you get up and going with a few streams, set your sights on reaching affilate. It's not that difficult to get, nor do you lose it if you don't keep up with the requirements to get it. You can then make custom channel emotes (again, another time sink, or there are a ton of artists out there that can make them for you) and accept subscriptions and bits. Twitch is owned by Amazon, so if you're a Prime member, link your Amazon account and you get a free subscription you can give to one streamer per month. It doesn't auto renew, so you can change it every month, but it is a nice 'gift' to give to streamers to help support them. Dark Sith Lord Bezos does take 50% of the $5/month cost of a base subscription (whether a Prime sub or paid for), so if you really want to help a streamer, use donations. But if you already have Prime, may as well throw the free sub around to someone. At the end of your stream, you can 'raid' another streamer. All it is is taking your viewers and dumping them into the channel of another streamer. I generally try to find other DJ's that are playing the same/similar genre that I think my viewers would stick around for; or just other DJ's I like. Then there's 'hosting.' That is when you are offline, but your channel is playing another stream. There are auto-host settings so that you don't have to manually host channels while you're offline. Between being raided (it's pretty much random and up to other streamers; don't beg) and raiding others, it's kind of the best way to get your channel out and exposed. But, don't make it about view counts or followers. Do it because you want to mix, no other reason. The music section has all of a sudden been saturated by DJ's/record labels due to the pandemic; there's a lot of people new to Twitch who don't know there's a bunch of other DJ's in the music category, so just keep going and you'll find an audience. Other thoughts: I love streaming on Twitch. I've done several 6+ hour streams in my time there. If you come from only playing out live, it's a big adjustment. There's no crowd energy to work off of; sometimes chat can give that to you, but it can be hard when you're just in your room by yourself. I personally find it hard to mix heavieharder stuff for more than 30-45 minutes at a time, so a lot of my mixes have been more chill and kind of downtempo as I can stay in that vibe for longer periods. I've met a lot of really awesome DJ's in my time there, and it's great seeing so many more looking for a creative outlet now that we're on global quarantine. Hopefully after some semblance of normality is restored, people will continue to livestream and the viewers keep coming back. I know this has been a giant wall of text, so apologies, but hopefully it gives someone something to go off of. Let me know if anyone has any specific questions or needs clarification on anything. Happy streaming!
Hey shibes, I see a lot of posts about mining lately and questions about the core wallet and how to mine with it, so here are some facts! Feel free to add information to that thread or correct me if I did any mistake.
You downloaded the core wallet
Great! After a decade it probably synced and now you are wondering how to get coins? Bad news: You don't get coins by running your wallet, even running it as a full node. Check what a full node is here. Maybe you thought so, because you saw a very old screenshot of a wallet, like this (Version 1.2). This version had a "Dig" tab where you can enter your mining configuration. The current version doesn't have this anymore, probably because it doesn't make sense anymore.
You downloaded a GPU/CPU miner
Nice! You did it, even your antivirus system probably went postal and you started covering all your webcams... But here is the bad news again: Since people are using ASIC miners, you just can't compete with your CPU hardware anymore. Even with your more advanced GPU you will have a hard time. The hashrate is too high for a desktop PC to compete with them. The blocks should be mined every 1 minute (or so) and that's causing the difficulty to go up - and we are out... So definitly check what is your hashrate while you are mining, you would need about 1.5 MH/s to make 1 Doge in 24 hours!
Let us start with a quote:
"Dogecoin Core 1.8 introduces AuxPoW from block 371,337. AuxPoW is a technology which enables miners to submit work done while mining other coins, as work on the Dogecoin block chain." - langerhans
What does this mean? You could waste your hashrate only on the Dogecoin chain, probably find never a block, but when, you only receive about 10.000 Dogecoins, currently worth about $25. Or you could apply your hashrate to LTC and Doge (and probably even more) at the same time. Your change of solving the block (finding the nonce) is your hashrate divided by the hashrat in sum - and this is about the same for Doge and LTC. This means you will always want to submit your work to all chains available!
Mining solo versus pool
So let's face it - mining solo won't get you anywhere, so let's mine on a pool! If you have a really bad Hashrate, please consider that: Often you need about $1 or $2 worth of crypto to receive a payout (without fees). This means, you have to get there. With 100 MH/s on prohashing, it takes about 6 days, running 24/7 to get to that threshold. Now you can do the math... 1 MH/s = 1000 KH/s, if you are below 1 MH/s, you probably won't have fun.
Buying an ASIC
You found an old BTC USB-miner with 24 GH/s (1 GH/s = 1000 MH/s) for $80 bucks - next stop lambo!? Sorry, bad news again, this hashrate is for SHA-256! If you want to mine LTC/Doge you will need a miner using scrypt with quite lower numbers on the hashrate per second, so don't fall for that. Often when you have a big miner (= also loud), you get more Hashrate per $ spent on the miner, but most will still run on a operational loss, because the electricity is too expensive and the miners will be outdated soon again. Leading me to my next point...
You won't make money running your miner. Just do the math: What if you would have bougth a miner 1 year ago? Substract costs for electricity and then compare to: What if you just have bought coins. In most cases you would have a greater profit by just buying coins, maybe even with a "stable" coin like Doges.
Okay, this was a lot of text and you are still on the hook? Maybe you are desperated enough to invest in some cloud mining contract... But this isn't a good idea either, because most of such contracts are scams based on a ponzi scheme. You often can spot them easy, because they guarantee way to high profits, or they fake payouts that never happened, etc. Just a thought: If someone in a subway says to you: Give me $1 and lets meet in one year, right here and I give you $54,211,841, you wouldn't trust him and if some mining contract says they will give you 5% a day it is basically the same. Also rember the merged mining part. Nobody would offer you to mine Doges, they would offer you to buy a hashrate for scrypt that will apply on multiple chains.
Maybe try to mine a coin where you don't have ASICs yet, like Monero and exchange them to Doge. If somebody already tried this - feel free to add your thoughts!
Folding at Home (Doge)
Some people say folding at home (FAH - https://www.dogecoinfah.com/) still the best. I just installed the tool and it says I would make 69.852 points a day, running on medium power what equates to 8 Doges. It is easy, it was fun, but it isn't much. Thanks for reading _nformant
Electroneum (ETN) minen mit GPU oder CPU Du benötigst einen Account bei Electroneum und einen miningpool. Ganz wichtig! - Ich beschreibe es hier zunächst für Windows. Hier werden einige einen Virenscanner einsetzen. Dieser wird einen miner als unerwünschte Software (oder ähnlich erkennen). Du musst also eine entsprechende Ausnahme einstellen. BTCMiner ist ein Open Source Bitcoin Miner für ZTEX USB-FPGA Module 1.5. Der BTCMiner verfügt über folgende Features: Er wird mit unterstützten FPGA-Boards geliefert, die eine USB-Schnittstelle für die Kommunikation und Programmierung enthalten. - CGMiner: Linux, Windows : CGMiner ist derzeit wohl der bekannteste und am häufigsten verwendete Bitcoin-Mining-Software und Bergleute. CGMiner ... USB Bitcoin Miner. Miner USB Sticks gibt es in unterschiedlichen Varianten. Vom Marktführer Bitmain werden Varianten angeboten, die zwischen 100€ und 500€ kosten können. Die Hashrate liegt bei den teureren Modellen bei etwa 60GH/s, so dass es auch mit einem Bitcoin Miner USB-Stick aufgrund des Stromverbrauchs unwahrscheinlich wird, Profite zu erwirtschaften. USB Miner lassen sich daher ... Transcript - USB - Bitcoin Mining Setup Guide. What’s going on every one? This is Fred and today we’re going to build a Bitcoin miner. All right. So, if you’re unfamiliar with Bitcoin I do have another video that has all the 10 things that you need to know about Bitcoin. So, give that a watch, get caught up, come back and we’ll get started. So, here’s all the pieces that you need to ... 2. Bitcoin minen mit USB Hardware. Eine Alternative zum Bitcoin Minen per GPU ist das Minen mit externer USB-Hardware. Diese ist darauf optimiert mit geringem Stromverbrauch effektiv zu minen. Der Bi Fury Bitcoin Miner ist nur wenig größer als ein USB-Stick und mit über 5 GH/s der schnellste Miner der Welt. Er ist etwa 15mal schneller als ...
Mining Bitcoin with BFGMiner and a ASICMiner USB Block ...
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